Thursday, 12 June 2014

Rojak Fayiz Cendul Recipe vs Online Penang Rojak Recipe

Recipe Blog

Relevance of Chef Interviewed
Recipe name: Pasembur/Indian Rojak (Penang style)
Interviewee’s name:    Mr. Ali
Contact number: 0111-6698166


Figure 1: Illustration of Indian Rojak

Ingredients for Indian Rojak
Cucumber, shredded
Turnip, shredded
Fried tofu, cubed
Cucur tepung (Flour fritters), cubed
Keropok tepung gandum (Prawns crackers), broken into small sizes
Hard-boiled eggs, quartered
Yellow noodle (optional)
Brown squid, cut into small sizes (optional)
Peanut sauce


Figure 2: Ingredients for Indian Rojak
















Figure 3: Vegetables for Indian Rojak
















Figure 4: Cut the flour fritters and fried tofu into cubes
















Figure 5: Shred the vegetables

Ingredients for Indian Rojak Peanut Sauce
250 g sweet potatoes, boiled till cooked and blend
2 cups of golden fried shallots, ground
20 dried chillies washed and soaked overnight and blend with water
250 g roasted peanuts, coarsely grounded
4 tablespoon raw sugar
2 tablespoon concentrated Tamarind Extract
Salt to taste

Ingredients for Indian Rojak Flour Fritters (Non-crispy)
3 shallots – thinly sliced
1 cup of wheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon turmeric
150-200ml water
2 cups of cooking oil

Ingredients for Rojak Prawn Crackers (Crispy)
1 cup of wheat flour
½ teaspoon of baking powder
1 teaspoon of salt
2 teaspoon of sugar
150-200ml water
75g chopped prawns
2 cups of cooking oil

Step-by-step procedure to prepare Indian Rojak

Rojak Sauce
1              Prepare the ingredients to make the Rojak sauce.
2              Mix the blended chillies and sweet potatoes in a saucepan.
3              Then, bring it to boil and simmer on medium heat for 20 minutes.
4              Next, add the other ingredients until the sauce thickens.
5              Season to preferred taste.
6              The rojak sauce should look like the picture below.


Figure 6: The peanut sauce

Cucur Tepung (Flour Fritters)
1              Prepare the ingredients to make flour flitters.
2              Mix all the ingredients in a mixing bowl.
3              Stir to mix well until thick.
4              Heat up oil in a wok.
5              Using a spoon, scoop the batter and drop into hot oil.
6              Deep fry until golden in colour.
7              Dish out the golden nuggets onto absorbent kitchen paper.
8              Set aside to cool and cut into bite-size.

Keropok Tepung Gandum (Prawn Crackers)
1              Prepare the ingredients to make prawn crackers.
2              Mix flour, baking powder, salt and sugar in a mixing bowl.
3              Mix in water gradually to form dough.
4              Leave aside for 30 minutes.
5              Add in chopped prawns.
6              Shape into round flat pieces.
7              Sprinkle with extra flour to prevent dough from being sticky.
8              Heat up oil in a wok.
9              Deep fry batter until golden brown.
10           Dish out the golden nuggets onto absorbent kitchen paper.
11           Set aside to cool.

Serving Pasembur/Indian Rojak
1              Arrange a little of each vegetable, fried tofu, eggs, flour fritters and prawn crackers on a plate.

 

Figure 7: Adding in the ingredients

2              Take one prawn cracker and break it to small sizes on top.

 

Figure 8: Mr. Ali breaking a piece of prawn cracker

3              Pour a ladle of rojak sauce over.
4              Serve immediately.
5              Add squid and yellow noodles if requested.


Figure 9: Cutting brown squid into smaller sizes and adding it as requested.

Online Recipe for Penang Rojak
By Linda
Found at: Roti & Rice


Figure 10: Linda's Penang Rojak
Ingredients for Penang Rojak
Small deep fried tofu
Pineapple, peeled and cut into chunks
Green mango, peeled and cubed
Small jicama (yam bean), peeled and cubed
Cucumber, cut into bite size pieces
Roasted peanut, chopped
Toasted sesame seeds
Rojak sauce

Ingredients for Penang Rojak sauce
Sambal belacan (pounded shrimp paste and chilli condiment)
Hei koh (sweet black shrimp paste)
Sweet sauce
Caramel soy sauce
Sugar

Step-by-step procedure to prepare Penang Rojak
1       First, prepare the ingredients to make the Rojak sauce. Mix sambal belacan, sweet sauce, caramel soy sauce, hei koh and sugar together in a bowl. Mix thouroughly with a spoon.
2          Place all ingredients for Penang Rojak in a large bowl.
3          Pour rojak sauce over the fruits and vegetables.
4          Sprinkle some chopped peanuts and sesame seeds.
5          Serve immediately.

Precision level of recipe and techniques posted
            Indian Rojak is the traditional dish favoured by the Tamil Muslims of India who have migrated to Malaysia. It is a famous Malaysian-Indian salad and it can be enjoyed at any time of day. Besides that, it can be found easily in the mamak (Indian restaurants) or Indian stalls in Malaysia. Indian Rojak is also known as Pasembur in Penang. The term Pasembur is peculiar to Northern Peninsular Malaysia especially associated with Penang. Besides that, Indian Rojak also served in other parts of Malaysia as proven from out interview. The term commonly used for the rojak is ‘Rojak Mamak’. The sweet and spicy nut sauce will soften the crispy fritter edges and flavours the vegetables at the same time. The ingredients used for Indian Rojak consists of cucumber (shredded), turnip (shredded), fried tofu (cubed), fritter flour, prawns crackers (broken into small sizes), hard-boiled eggs (quartered), peanut sauce as well as yellow noodle and cooked brown squid can be added with extra charges. The combination of the ingredients will then be served with peanut sauce.
            For Rojak Fayiz Cendul stall, the normal rojak only costs RM4.50. With added yellow mee, it costs RM5. For those that fancy brown squid, adding it will cost RM6.
            On the other hand, Penang Rojak is another type of rojak which can be found in Penang and other parts of Malaysia. It is also known as fruit rojak. Fruit rojak can be enjoyed as a side dish or as an appetiser. It can also be enjoyed at any time of the day. The ingredients used for Penang Rojak consists of fried tofu, pineapple, green mango, small jicama, cucumber and roasted peanut. The combination of the ingredients will then be served with a black thick sauce.
            Besides that, Penang Rojak is much healthier than the Indian Rojak as Indian Rojak is particularly high in fats and carbohydrates that add up to the total calorie count.

Similarities between the recipes online and from the interview
Although both originated from Penang, there are two variations of it. As for the similarities, both recipes include cucumbers and fried tofu.

Differences between the recipes
            There are differences between the one we have interviewed and an existing online recipe. We have interviewed a roadside stall around Subang area whereas the online recipe we found online is a Penang Rojak recipe by Linda. Although both of the rojak originated from Penang, their ingredients and sauce used are different from each other. The one we interviewed is Indian Rojak and has more vegetables compared to the other Penang rojak, which includes fruits. Besides that, Indian rojak sauce uses peanut sauce while Penang rojak is based on hei koh.

Critical evaluation of factors changing a food heritage
Up to the 1980s, rojak peddlers can be found squatting by the roadsides. Their make-shift stall is on their bicycles and portable. Back then, it was illegal to sell goods by the roadsides. Thus, rojak peddlers mount their stalls on a bicycle as a fast and easy way to escape from policemen. After modernisation, there are no longer rojak peddlers on bicycles or even those pushcarts. Today, we can find vans selling rojak by the roadside and setting up tables and chairs. Mr. Ali’s stall is his van and he sets up tables and chairs as well as putting a temporary tent for shade.


Figure 11: Rojak Fayiz Cendul van at the roadside

            According to Mr. Ali, he has been in business for five years already. He is not from Penang and learned the trade from someone else. He is also a Malay person who prepares Indian Rojak. The ingredients used as well as the peanut sauce is similar to authentic Penang Indian rojak. Due to cultural reasons, he may not accurately present the Penang Indian rojak authenticity. His skill level is also not that high as he did not practice making rojak since young nor ate it all the time in Penang. As he needs to make a living, budget is a consideration. Instead of using prawn critters as the original Indian rojak, he uses only flour fritters, without including prawns. Besides that, time constraints is important. Customers should be served immediately without taking too much time. Thus, everything is already prepared beforehand and Mr. Ali only needs to put it on the bowl or in a plastic if they want takeaway.



Figure 12: Mr. Ali passing a takeaway rojak to a customer

Restaurant Review on Ah Cheng Laksa @ One City




Figure 1: The green area in the map is One City, located in USJ25/1A. Ah Cheng Laksa’s stall is located inside this mall at level 1A.

Address:
NO. A – 1A – KO2, KO3
1A FLOOR, ONE CITY
JALAN USJ 25/1A
47640 SUBANG JAYA
SELANGOR DARUL EHSAN

Contact details:
Fax: 03-80237147
Tel: 012-3046200 (Celine)
Email: info@ahchenglaksa.com.my
Website: http://www.ahchenglaksa.com.my/index.php
Facebook: Ah Cheng Laksa 

Opening hours:
10.30AM – 9.30PM
(Monday to Sunday including public holidays)


Figure 2: Ah Cheng Laksa branch at One City Mall


Authenticity of Ah Cheng Laksa
Ah Cheng Laksa specialises in asam laksa among a variety of other popular Malaysian dishes including curry laksa, pan mee and nasi lemak ayam rendang. Asam laksa can be described as a sour, fish-based rice noodles soup. Asam is the malay word for sour, which uses tamarind to stock the sour flavour. Asam keping aka tamarind peels is added to enhance the sourness. Meanwhile, laksa refers to a Malaysian dish of Chinese origin, consisting of rice noodles served in a curry sauce or hot soup. In fact, laksa is derived from the Hindi word ‘lakhs’, which means ten thousand. It is unsure the reason for the name is due to the multitude of ingredients used or the thousands of strands of noodles made from rice floor that gave laksa its name.

Ah Cheng Laksa’s origins can be traced back to 1960 in a small town in Alor Star, Kedah. It all began when a coupon started peddling asam laksa to help make ends meet. The popularity of the dish became well-known for its unique flavour and special aroma. The soup has a thinner consistency compared to their peers from Penang and is added slices of egg. One of their children, Ah Cheng, took over the business and she operates from the family courtyard at Simpang Empat. Eventually, one family member saw the potential in the asam laksa and opened up a food chain of Ah Cheng Laksa in Klang Valley. The first branch was opened in 2004 and currently, there are about 17 outlets established.



Figure 3: 1960s: Selling asam laksa by peddling

As for the authenticity of Ah Cheng’s Kedah laksa, they particularly focus on originality. The ingredients are carefully sourced from North Malaysia to maintain consistency and good quality all time. The recipe, process, and technique have maintained the same throughout with only extra integration of modern cooking appliances.

The asam laksa was sold in a warung, which in this context refers to the type of modest small family-owned café. Thus, Ah Cheng Laksa incorporated the design of their kiosk with a traditional relaxing village style warung for added local atmosphere. It is an infusion of traditional and modern architectural design whilst maintaining the originality of village feel and look. Customers are able to see how the food is prepared.


Figure 4: 1960s: The original warung that sold Kedah laksa for only RM 2.70

Kedah laksa is almost the same as Penang laksa and the only difference is in the garnishing used. For Kedah laksa, sliced boiled eggs are usually added to the dish and rice flour is used to make the laksa noodle.  In Penang, they use the thicker rice vermicelli for their asam laksa. Besides that, Penang laksa has pineapples added into the dish.


Figure 5: Penang asam laksa (Chinese version) shows pineapple slices are included as garnish as well as a spoon of prawn paste

In 2011, asam laksa is ranked number seven on ‘World’s 50 Most Delicious Food’.

Ah Cheng Laksa’s asam laksa includes shredded sardine fish, lemongrass, asam keping  (tamarind peels), tamarind, and finely sliced vegetables including onions, cucumber, red chillies, lettuce, common mint, Vietnamese mint (laksa mint) and pink bunga kantan (torch ginger buds). In Penang, asam laksa is usually topped off with a thick sweet prawn paste while it is optional for Kedah laksa. It is to be noted that there are two types of asam laksa in Penang; the thicker gravy is what the Malays prefer while the Chinese version uses more prawn paste and the gravy is not as thick. There are extra limes provided for those fancy a more sourish soup. Sambal is also available for those who like it. It is noted in Ah Cheng Laksa’s asam laksa there is no egg provided as per standard for Kedah laksa. This is because some people are allergic to egg and Ah Cheng Laksa strives to serve everyone. Accurately described, their laksa soup has a thin texture unlike Penang asam laksa as the garnishes are blended and topped on top of the dish. It is neither that spicy nor sour. Besides the normal-sized serving priced at RM7.90, Ah Cheng Laksa has junior size for kids or those that only wants to eat a smaller portion at RM5.50. Set meals is only RM9.90 and comes with a choice of drink.



Figure 6: Ah Cheng Laksa's Kedah Laksa


Figure 7: Size comparison: Regular asam laksa vs Junior asam laksa 

On the other hand, we also got to try another Malaysian food by Ah Cheng Laksa, which is curry laksa or also known as curry mee in order not to be confused with asam laksa. Curry is described as an Indian-style sauce of strong spices and turmeric. The texture of the soup is thick and it is slightly spicy. The ingredients included in the curry mee are taufu pok (bean curd puff), siham (blood clams), long bean, chicken meat, fish cake, chilis, bean sprout and served with yellow mee.


Figure 8: Ah Cheng Laksa's Curry Mee


As for the utensils, Ah Cheng Laksa uses disposable chopsticks, plastic spoons and sauce plate.


Figure 9: Self-service: Take your own disposable utensils as well as limes and sambal


The food is prepared in front of us by cooking the noodles, adding the soup and garnishes on top. It is a self-service restaurant thus customers have to order at the counter and collect it when it is done.


Figure 10: Ah Cheng Laksa modern warung design at One City Mall


Figure 11: Ah Cheng Laksa staff preparing the dish

The traditional way of preparation is maintained, only modern equipment is integrated with cooking. The traditional method is time consuming and in the modern society, time is valued. Ah Cheng Laksa has sort off become a type of fast food restaurant.


Figure 12: The interior of the warung where the food is prepared.

Validity of cultural information posted
Asam laksa is the result of the Peranakan community. During the 15th century, Fujianese traders took local Malays whom were non-muslim as wives as Chinese women were not allowed to leave China due to an Imperial Decree. Chinese traders came to the Malay Peninsula before the advent of colonialism. After much trades with the local malays, the Chinese ultimately absorbed much of the local way of life into their culture. Over time, the Peranakan community gradually absorbed new arrivals from China. The first settlement of Chinese traders was in Malacca. With the advent of colonialism, Peranakan migrated to other areas of the country such as Penang, Kedah and even to Singapore.

Male descendants are called “Baba” and females are called “Nyonya”. The term Baba actually evolved from the Indonesian term “Bapak” meaning “Sir”. Similarly, the term Nyonya is also of Indonesian origin and means “Lady”. The word Peranakan is derived from the word anak, which translates to child. Thus, it gives meaning that the children of intermarriages were called Peranakan. It is only exclusively used by the Chinese Peranakan community as they comprised the majority among all other Peranakan groups. Nyonya dishes incorporate Chinese and Malay ingredients as well as cooking style to create Nyonya cuisine.

On the asam laksa theme, each state in Malaysia has their version of asam laksa. Famously known and adored by fellow Malaysian as well as foreigners, asam laksa is usually associated with Penang asam laksa. The thicker soup gravy is what Malaysians prefer. Besides Penang style, the Peranakan culture has slightly different variants in Kedah. For Laksa Kedah, it is less sour and the fish flakes in the gravy are usually blended. Although Kedah is closer to Thailand than Penang in Northern Malaysia, Nyonya Food in Penang has a preference for tangy or sour food. Their asam laksa is considerably sourer than Kedah asam laksa.


Figure 13: Illustration of original Kedah asam laksa

It is speculated that Kedah asam laksa is the most nutritious among others as the vegetables are taken raw, thus maintaining the nutrients. Moreover, the gravy uses plenty of fishes and fishes are high in protein. The gravy is boiled without the use of oil and coconut.

Analysis of its role as Malaysian Food Heritage
Hands down, Ah Cheng laksa is part of the Malaysian Food Heritage including their specialty, Kedah asam laksa. According to history, Chinese traders migrated and wed local Malay brides and gave rise to the first generation of mixed Chinese-Malays known as Peranakan. They then married within their own community and establish a strong hybrid culture proud of its heritage in Malaysia. In a simple manner, Peranakan community is formed due to the union of two different cultures and created a fusion food style of Malay and Chinese.

According to a geographical point of view, the Chinese may came from a foreign country, but Nyonya food is created because of marriage between two different cultures. Therefore, Nyonya food is certainly a Malaysian Food Heritage. Even when a fellow Malaysian is asked about what is the local food in Malaysia, surely one the answer will be asam laksa.